A real price range for a repair, water heater, sewer line, or remodel in about 30 seconds. Built for plumbing contractors, free for homeowners.
Updated August 2026
This plumbing calculator asks a homeowner what they need, a clogged drain, a leak, a new water heater, a sewer line, a remodel, then prices it as a real low-to-high range. For the bigger jobs it asks one follow-up, tank or tankless, spot or trenchless, a refresh or a full gut, and narrows the number. The homeowner sees a price on screen with no email required.
It is also a free calculator any plumbing company can put directly on their own site. Set it up below and every homeowner who runs it on your site becomes a lead in your inbox, full breakdown included.
It captures homeowner leads for you, full name, contact info, and the estimate they got, emailed to you the second someone submits it. Takes one block of code and stays free forever.
A plumbing quote starts with the job, not the fixture. A running toilet, a slow drain, and a burst supply line are three different amounts of work, so the calculator prices from the type of work first. For an everyday repair that is enough to give a real range. For a bigger job the price swings on one more answer.
A water heater is not one price, it is a tank price and a tankless price. A sewer line is a spot repair, a trenchless run, or a full replacement, and those are far apart. A remodel is a refresh, a mid-range job, or a full gut. That is why the calculator asks a single follow-up on those three, so the number lands near the real job instead of a wide guess. What it cannot see, the seized valve, the corroded pipe behind the wall, the permit your city requires, is measured on the visit and is what turns the range into a firm quote.
This table pairs each job the calculator prices with a national ballpark range and the one thing that moves it most. The ranges are wide on purpose, because access, local labor rates, and scope move them hard. Use it as a sanity check, then run the real job through the calculator above.
| Job | Ballpark range | What moves it |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet repair or install | $150 to $600 | Repair vs full swap, and the toilet grade |
| Faucet repair or install | $150 to $450 | Cartridge fix vs a new fixture |
| Drain cleaning | $150 to $500 | Snake vs hydro-jet, and how deep the clog sits |
| Leak detection and repair | $150 to $600 | Finding it vs opening a wall to fix it |
| Gas line or piping | $300 to $1,500 | Run length, permit, and pressure test |
| Water heater, tank | $1,200 to $2,500 | Capacity and whether the connections move |
| Water heater, tankless | $2,800 to $5,500 | Gas and venting upgrades the unit needs |
| Sewer line, spot repair | $1,500 to $4,000 | Dig depth and where the break sits |
| Sewer line, trenchless | $6,000 to $15,000 | Line length and pipe-bursting vs lining |
| Bathroom or kitchen remodel | $5,000 to $60,000 | Refresh vs a full gut of the plumbing |
Everyday repairs cluster in the low hundreds; the spread opens up on water heaters, sewer work, and remodels, where the type of job matters more than any single part. That spread is exactly what the follow-up questions in the calculator are there to narrow.
Most plumbing calls price cleanly off the symptom. Three jobs do not, because a single label hides two or three very different amounts of work. The calculator prices these by type so a homeowner is not handed a range wide enough to be useless.
A tank swap is the simpler, cheaper job. A tankless unit costs more up front because it usually needs a bigger gas line and new venting, and it runs more efficiently for longer. The calculator prices both so the homeowner compares the real up-front numbers, not a single blended one.
One broken section can be spot-dug and repaired. A whole failing line can be lined or burst without a long trench, or dug and replaced outright. Those paths are thousands of dollars apart, so the method the homeowner picks is what pins the number.
Swapping fixtures in place is a different job from moving drains and supply lines for a full-gut bathroom or kitchen. The tier the homeowner picks sets how much plumbing actually moves, which is what the price follows.
Here is the full chain from a homeowner's problem to a real number, the same steps the calculator above runs the instant they answer.
The homeowner picks "water heater." Water is pooling under a ten-year-old tank.
The calculator asks tank or tankless. They pick tank, a like-for-like replacement.
A tank replacement prices near $1,200 to $2,500 on national defaults, or on the plumber's own numbers when they set them.
The homeowner marks it an emergency, which tells the plumber to call first. A planning job would route differently.
If they choose to send it, the plumber gets the job, the range, the urgency, and the homeowner's contact, emailed the second they submit.
The permit, whether the connections move, and a possible expansion tank are measured on the visit and adjust the final quote from this ballpark.
Two homes can get quotes hundreds or thousands of dollars apart for the same fixture, and none of it is padding. These are the things a site visit measures that a quick estimate cannot see.
Access is the biggest one: a shutoff that works versus a seized valve, a fixture in an open basement versus one behind finished drywall or under a slab. After that come the condition of the existing pipe, whether old galvanized or cast iron has to be replaced instead of reused; the permit and inspection fee, which varies by city; any code upgrade the inspector requires, like an expansion tank on a water heater or a sediment trap on a gas line; and the disposal of what comes out. An emergency or after-hours call adds a premium on top. A gas line adds a pressure test. That is why the calculator gives a range and the on-site visit gives the firm number.
This estimator gives the homeowner a number. These tools handle the math and the paperwork behind it, pipe volume, flow rate, estimates, invoices, and your rates. All free, all no signup.
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Open the toolSay a homeowner runs the numbers on your site at 9pm with water spreading across the floor, then calls. AutoRev answers, already knowing your pricing and your calendar, and tells them where their job lands on your own range before a tech has seen the house. It gets their info, prices a real estimate, and books the visit, all before you have finished your coffee.
You do not configure a chatbot flow for this. You tell AutoRev what you want handled, and it does it, the same way you would hand a task to a new office hire and trust them to run with it.
AutoRev plugs into whatever FSM or CRM your shop already runs. It is the coworker that works the phone, the texts, the estimates, and the follow-up around it. What it is already doing for plumbing companies:
Get a free AI audit. We'll map your workflows and show you exactly where AutoRev's AI coworker fits in.
What comes up before installing the calculator, pricing a repair, or quoting a bigger job.
Yes. There is no subscription, no trial period, and no card required, for the contractor installing it or the homeowner using it. Homeowners see a real price range with no email required to see a number, and plumbing companies who install it on their own site keep it free forever.
No. Enter your business name and email once to get your embed code, hosted link, and QR code, that is the whole setup. There is no dashboard to log into and no account to manage.
Every submission is emailed to you instantly, with the homeowner's name, contact info, the job they picked, and the price range their answers produced. Lead emails start once you click the one-time confirmation link we send when you set up your embed. The calculator still works for homeowners before that, it just is not emailing you yet.
Yes. Set a low-to-high range for the everyday jobs like drains, faucets, and leaks, and a range for each type of the bigger jobs, tank or tankless water heaters, spot or trenchless sewer work, a refresh or a full-gut remodel. Every estimate your calculator gives then runs on your numbers. Leave any of them blank and that job falls back to a solid national default.
The credit line is what keeps the calculator free. Keep it in place and the calculator, the leads, and the emails stay free forever.
Most residential plumbers bill somewhere between $75 and $200 an hour, with the higher end in big metros and for licensed master plumbers. Many shops price by the job rather than the hour using a flat-rate book, so a homeowner sees one number for the task instead of a running clock. Emergency, after-hours, and weekend calls carry a premium, often a higher rate plus a trip or dispatch fee. This calculator prices by the job, which is how most homeowners actually get quoted.
Access and scope move a plumbing price more than the fixture does. A faucet swap where the shutoff valves work is a fast job; the same swap where the valves are seized and the supply lines are corroded turns into a bigger one. Behind a wall or under a slab, a plumber cannot see the full scope until the work starts, so a range is honest and a single number often is not. The permit, the local labor rate, and whether old pipe has to be replaced all shift the total, which is why this calculator gives a range and treats the on-site visit as the exact figure.
A tank water heater costs less to buy and install, commonly $1,200 to $2,500 for a standard swap, and it is the simpler job. A tankless unit costs more up front, often $2,800 to $5,500, because it usually needs a larger gas line and new venting, but it runs more efficiently, never runs out of hot water, and lasts longer. Over a 15-to-20-year life the tankless can pencil out cheaper to run. The calculator prices both so a homeowner can compare the up-front numbers side by side.
It depends on the method and the length. A spot repair, digging to one broken section, commonly runs $1,500 to $4,000. A full trenchless job, pipe-bursting or lining the whole run without a long trench, runs roughly $6,000 to $15,000, and a full traditional dig-and-replace can run higher on a long or deep line. What drives it is the length of the line, how deep it sits, whether it runs under a driveway or slab, and the local permit. The calculator asks which method fits so the range narrows to the real job.
Hydro-jetting clears a drain or sewer line with a high-pressure water stream instead of a cable snake. A snake punches a hole through a clog and clears the immediate blockage; a jet scours the full inside of the pipe, cutting through grease, scale, and tree roots and leaving the line closer to clean. Jetting costs more than a basic snake, so a plumber usually recommends it for a recurring clog, a main-line blockage, or a line with root intrusion, not a one-off slow drain. The calculator's drain-cleaning range covers both, since the method is chosen on site.
Often yes. Most jurisdictions require a permit and an inspection for anything beyond a simple like-for-like fixture swap, water heater replacements, sewer and water-service lines, gas lines, and any repipe or remodel that moves plumbing. A minor repair like a faucet cartridge or a running toilet usually does not. Permit costs vary by city and are part of the quote a licensed plumber gives, which is one reason the on-site number can sit above a rough estimate. The calculator's ranges assume permitted work where a permit applies.
Age, repair history, and the cost of the fix against the replacement all point the way. A water heater past ten to twelve years that needs a major part is usually cheaper to replace than to repair. A sewer line with one break can be spot-repaired; a line with repeated backups, root intrusion along its length, or old clay or cast-iron pipe is a replacement candidate. A good rule is that when a repair costs more than about half of a replacement, replacement is usually the smarter spend. The calculator prices both paths so the comparison is in front of the homeowner.
A complete estimate covers the labor to do the job, the parts and fixtures, any permit and inspection fee, and the disposal of what comes out. For a bigger job it also accounts for access, cutting into a wall or slab and patching it back, and any code upgrade the inspector requires along the way, like a new shutoff, an expansion tank, or a drip leg on a gas line. The three-tier or by-type pricing in the calculator shows how the scope, not just the fixture, moves the number.
Treat it as a solid ballpark that gets a homeowner oriented before anyone visits. It prices the job from the type of work and a few follow-up answers, on regional defaults or the plumber's own numbers. An in-home visit inspects the actual access, the condition of the existing pipe, and the local permit cost, which is what turns the ballpark into a firm price. The calculator's job is to give a real number fast and start the conversation, not to replace the site visit.
No. The calculator shows a real price range on screen from the homeowner's answers before it asks for anything. Contact details are only requested if the homeowner wants that estimate sent to a plumber or wants a call back. That is deliberate, a tool that shows a number first earns more finished submissions than one that gates the result behind a form.
Need a one-off customer estimate instead of an embeddable calculator? Build one in the same place.